Pineapple Pottery near Patzquaro

A quick trip last week to Guadalajara and Patzquaro turned in to 4 days because there was just too much to see. We were with our friends Yoli and Victor and one of Yoli's goals was to buy some pineapple (piña) pottery from the source.

Just outside of the village of San José de Gracia we found these two pots placed by the road and we knew we were there.








This little shelter was the shop where we met Maria Cruz, the artist.

She graciously showed us how she hand builds the pottery with no wheel and applies the surface texture by pulling off a little bit of clay and "pinching" it onto the pot.Then she places it in her wood-fired kiln
which produces these intricate pineapple pots
and pottery sculptures.
Pineapple pottery is an acquired taste for me but I was charmed by these clay tables she makes to hold her plants.
We drove on into the town and found several more little shops along the road
where Yoli happily added more pineapples to her collection.

The Circus is in Town

The circus sprouts colorful tents in a vacant field behind our house once or twice a year. There are a number of traveling circuses and this is the first I have seen the Atayde Brothers Circus.

Prices seem to be high: 200 pesos for the good seats (about $15) to 60 pesos ($4.75) for children in the top row seats. That is a lot for a large family.

I love to come early when they are putting the tents up. These guys are doing their own high wire act without ropes.
But the main reason I love the circus is we get to see the cats.
They are right out in the field, up close and personal. Anyone want to pull her tail?
The workers enjoy showing how "tame" they are. Here is one getting a "beso/kiss" from the white tiger.
Such beautiful markings.

They are all so healthy and well fed.
I'm only disappointed that we haven't seen the circus parade this year yet; perhaps later in the week if we are lucky we will turn a corner in town and there it will be.

Big Day for Saint Michael the Archangel

October 3rd started at 2am for us when the fireworks and bells began. We walked to the center of town about 3:30 in time to see the parade of the paper mache stars lit from within by candles.

It is difficult to capture the massive fireworks of the Alborada with my little camera; I need Melissa down here with all her lenses. I have posted about the fireworks battle previously with a slide show.

The celebration continues into the day with a massive parade. Each year it is slightly different but with similar components.

There are always the creepy clowns
and crowds lining the parade route
Lots of horses
Dancing people in traditional costumes
A scary monster devil guy
Giant paper mache dancing figures, called Mojigangs

Little angels on a float with St. Michael
Dancers from the city's neighborhoods and neighboring regions representing different tribes which inhabited the region before the Conquest.
An appreciative and enthusiastic crowd
And finally, the Xúchiles, 20-foot traditional floral offerings to St Michael the Archangel made out of an ancient desert plant (cucharilla) and marigolds. The constructions are so heavy it takes 10 men to carry them along the parade route where they are finally installed in the courtyard of the Paroquia.
As the light was dying, the Voladores, flying dancers from Papantla, Veracruz, performed overhead while we sat in the shadow of the Xúchiles the Paroquia courtyard
and looked up at the image of St. Michael he Archangel displayed on a Xúchile.

A Special Blessing

Since this is the week of the Feast of San Miguel, we were not surprised to see a procession carrying his statue passing under a banner of his namesake, San Miguel de Allende. Apparently San Miguel is also the saint of taxi drivers because following behind was a line of taxis reaching up the road to the top of the hill, decorated in red paper flowers, balloons and streamers.

The drivers carefully maneuvered in front of the Paroquia
and were arranged in neat rows facing the church.

Then at the appointed moment it was "hoods up"   

 and the priest appeared with the holy water.
Each taxi was individually blessed.
One more reason to love living in San Miguel de Allende!