Hungry anyone?

With the holidays we seem to eat out more with friends and maybe this unusually warm December lets us get out more so I thought I would show you some of our favorite places to eat. There are so many that this may be a long blog. I made the photos small so if you want to get a closer look at any of the photos you can click on them to see a larger version. Feel free to add your favorite SMA eateries in the comments since I've left a lot out.

Gombo's is probably our first choice because you can't go wrong with their pizza and we haven't found a better beef and spinach lasagna or carbonara anywhere. The family of brothers has Hungarian roots and they serve with a special flair in very humble surroundings. It is a long walk across town to the neighborhood of Guadelupe but worth it, in spite of the heavy road repairs going on there right now.






Mama Mia's is our first choice for sesame crust pizza because there is almost always live music in their beautiful courtyard but La Grotta does have great sangria or house wine to go with their pizza in an intimate setting downstairs in the "grotto" or up.

El Rinconcita is like eating at a taco stand only the cart is in the courtyard of home and you are served by a pleasant couple who lovingly prepare the food in front of you. They have the best lemonada served in really large glasses and I love the fajita nachos.



El Burrito Bistro is my comfort food place; Melissa and Tim agree. Burritos aren't typical of this region but this is one place you can get wholewheat wrapped burritos or there is even a middle eastern burrito.




El Manson del Bosque is our choice for a family style breakfast where everything is well prepared and we can serve ourselves the fruit plate! (Yummy... fresh mango.) The extra bonus is that since it is a hotel you meet new and interesting people every time as well as the locals. We call it Ruth's since she has owned and run the beautiful hotel for over 30 years. You can usually see us there Sunday mornings.




Longhorn Smokehouse is a Texas import but sure has great brisket bbq sandwiches and beer. It is in the back of a dusty lot under a tent but the food and atmosphere don't suffer.






Ten Ten Pie has just expanded to the tiny plaza across the street and placed several umbrella tables under the bougainvillea with the dome of the main church in the background . They can always be counted on for a tasty snack of tacos al pastor. Right next door behind the pink wall is the Casa Rosada which has a beautiful courtyard and probably the tastiest margaritas in town.


I'll add two more, although these aren't exactly restaurants. The ice cream wagon, complete with a powerful horse to pull it, appears almost daily in a corner of the Jardin with a supply of tasty homemade ice cream in exotic flavors.


In the evenings we like to go to La Ventana's walk up window and get their rich hot chocolate to carry to the Jardin around the corner. We can sit on the benches there and watch the world go by. No better way to spend time in San Miguel.

Christmas in San Miguel

The Christmas tree is up in the Jardin so it must be Navidad. This post is written to answer a question from my sweet sister-in-law, Rhonda. She asked how San Miguel celebrates Christmas.

The celebration begins with 9 nights of posadas (which means literally "inns"). These are community processions where people walk each night from one church to the next asking to be taken in, recreating the experience of Mary and Joseph on their way to Bethlehem.

We love to join in as they proceed through different neighborhoods each night, carrying candles and singing the special posada song which requests shelter for the night. Each night we are invited for ponche (a non-alcoholic punch loaded with traditional fruits like prunes and apples and others with names I don't know.) Usually there are piñatas along the way hanging in front of some houses for the children to break and it is very merry. We participate for the community feeling rather than the religious tradition and are wamly included.

Christmas is a time for family and not of gift giving, although that is creeping south of the border with some of the businesses even having jolly santas as you enter the store. The gift giving for the children in Mexico is on Jan. 6th, Three Kings' Day (Feast of the Epiphany) which commemorates the gifts the Magi brought to the baby Jesus.

On Three Kings' Day families eat rosca de reyes, an oval shaped bread made with dried fruit. Baked inside the bread is a tiny baby doll, representing the baby Jesus. Whoever gets the slice of rosca with the baby must provide tamales and atole (a sweet milky hot drink made with corn flour and cinnamon) at a party on February 2. I have gotten the baby (sometimes there are several in the fruitcake) but have never yet given the party since I don't know how to make atole or tamales.

We wish all our friends and family Felices Fiestas y un Prospero Año Nuevo in 2008.

Virgin of Guadalupe children's procession

Like the Revolution Day, the children of San Miguel celebrate Juan Diego's vision of the Virgin of Guadalupe with their own procession. We just happened to stumble on the gathering at the start of the procession just down the street from our house. Here are a few of my favorite shots.









As the night grew darker, the procession began with the live "float" of Juan Diego seeing the vision of the Virgin of Guadalupe.

Then the parents, with their children in tow or in their arms, marched down to the central square. The official holiday is December 12.

Road Trip, Part 3

After one last breakfast under the palms with our feet in the sand of Zihuatenejo, we headed about 3 1/2 hours north and inland to Pátzcuaro, a city that shows it's 16th century Spanish roots in its ancient tile roofs and red and white painted buildings.

The next morning we met with local guide Francisco Castilleja, who can trace his roots back to the original Conquistadors from Spain. He took us on an unforgettable tour around the lake to learn more about the history and crafts villages surrounding Lake Pátzcuaro.

First stop was in Tocuaro to the backroad home of maskmaker Felipe Horta Tera. His masks are used in holiday celebrations and fiestas throughout Mexico and are collected internationally. Unfortunately he is one of the last maskmakers in the Pátzcuaro area and hasn't found anyone to train in his craft. We couldn't resist his fierce Lucifer mask, already well used in ceremonies.


Next stop was to visit the home one of the last P'urhepecha speakers. If you think that word is difficult to master, the rest aren't easier. Francisco told us that in his village there are only 20 women who are keeping the language and traditions; after they are gone, that's it. I love this photo both for her pride in her hand embroidered tortilla cover and that it makes me look tall.
We also visited a franscican monastery, a factory producing exquisite custom-painted furniture and we ended with lunch at his home. All this was accompanied by an entertaining commentary on the political and social situation in Mexico. Thanks to Larry, Stephanie, Trish and Dick for recommending him.

Road Trip, Part 2

Look! Here is my baby turtle friend less than 2 minutes old! who erupted to the top of the sand from it's nest with 60 or so of it's brothers and sisters. Sh/e is ready to head for the ocean at this very moment but the turtle protection project where we found her will keep her for a day so they can release her tomorrow night with several hundred others at a time for a higher success rate. We were so fortunate to witness her hatching.

The short story is that during our drive down 150 mile the magical Michoacan coast we happened on a turtle ecology project. There is literally nothing on this coast and after several tries we were able to locate someone to rent us a cabana on a remote beach nearby. No hot water and only one light. Literally the middle of nowhere. We couldn't find a restaurant for lunch but met some Canadians in a bus-sized rig who took pity on us and fed us dinner in exchange for driving them to the nighttime turtle monitoring project.

Saturday night was a full moon when we witnessed a female lay about 75 eggs, bury them and then return to the ocean. The employees of the turtle project tagged her, then collected the eggs and brought them back to the station to bury them where they will emerge 45 days later.
She is a black turtle, one of up to about 60 a night who lumber out of the ocean during this season to lay their eggs. They come twice a year, leaving distinctive tracks in the night in the sand.




Today, Sunday, we left early and continued down the coast to Zihuatanejo. We fell in love with "Zihuat" and plan to stay a few more nights as we explore this laid back beach town. It is also nice to have hot water, cable TV, a cell phone, internet access and an air conditioner. So much for the simple life.

I want to take a moment to retract some of what what I said in my last post about Puerto Vallarta. The last evening we were there we happened on the southern part of the city, known as "Zona Romantica" where we finally felt at home. We would definitely come back to this area for a longer stay, avoiding the more touristy central city. We enjoyed a margarita in the sand watching the fishing boats and the sunset.

Road Trip, Part 1

We left SMA Sunday morning after breakfast with friends at Ruth's and arrived at our hotel in Tonala, a suburb of Guadalajara, in time for the tail end of the Sunday market. Monday is the day before Mexican Revolution day but that is when Tonala celebrates it. We caught the parade which this time featured the older revolutionaries. I imagine originally they were the revolutionaries but as time passes they become the children of the revolutionaries. Delightful to hear them singing, dressed up in their revolution clothes.

On Monday we checked out Ajijic, a popular gringo retirement town on Lake Chapala. We had lunch at a lovely restaurant on the lakeside; charming but no San Miguel.

On Tuesday morning we headed out for the coast, stopping in Sayulita for lunch at a palapa with our feet in the sand. This photo is for Sara and Joyce who have both been there. Looks like someone was expecting me.








That evening we arrived at our resort in Puerto Vallarta in time for a margarita and to watch the sunset. Those who know us know we aren't "big resort" people but we have recently been using Worldmark points which Bryan bought on the internet in the secondary market. We get deeply discounted rates when we book by booking Worldmark resorts with short notice, which allows them to be sure their rooms are full.
Well, we checked in for our 3 nights and they snapped on our all-inclusive bracelets! We totally didn't expect this but didn't complain. So here we sit with all the free drinks we want and 3 meals plus a snack bar; Bryan calls it a cruise ship on land.

Speaking of cruise ships, there are 3 enormous ones docked this afternoon and the town is crawling with tourists and people who want to sell them timeshares. How many ways can you say no!

We will be here through Thanksgiving and hope you all have a wonderful time with family and friends. Maybe they will serve us turkey in the buffet.

San Miguel nightlife

While Melissa and Tim were here last week we went to Bella Italia restaurant to see Gil and Cartas play gypsy jazz. It was so much fun that we decided to go again last night, only with a larger group.

L-R around the table: Stephanie, Larry, Victor, Jo, Ron, Ros, and the back of Dick's head

L-R around the table: Ron, Ros, Dick, Trish, Bryan, Larry, Victor
(I took the pictures so I'm not in this)

As a special treat, Doc Severinsen, who lives in San Miguel, joined Gil and Cartas which made for an splendid evening of energetic jazz. For anyone under a certain age, Doc was Tonight Show host Johny Carson's bandleader/musical director and foil for 25 years.

Gil Gutierrez, Pedro Cartas, Doc Severinsen

But wait, the evening wasn't over after the two sets. Stephanie suggested we go hear Benjamin, an entertaining guitarist in a nearby bar who sings Mexican ballads with a folksy, sing-along style.
Bryan took this picture and it seems that he wasn't focusing on the guitarist. Oh, well, probably a camera problem. When we left at 1:30 the crowd was growing and going strong.

Little Revolutionaries

Tuesday is Revolution Day in Mexico and is celebrated with a big parade, but the Friday before is for the preschool set who are too small to march in a big parade. These were taken after the parade today in the central square. Way fun. Enjoy.

Yummy churros and chocolate

Melissa and Tim left today to return to San Diego after a week-long visit. It was such a treat to have her here; she has a special eye and a really good camera and she showed us a new way of looking at our town. And we had the opportunity to get to know Tim Selenak. They are very sweet together and laugh a lot.











One of the things she wanted to do was get churros and chocolate at San Agustín, a popular restaurant that specializes in both those treats.
Here is her photo essay.

The all-important sugaring process.

Yummy hot chocolate!

The main course :)

Our happy tummys!

Milk truck 1, Casa 0

About three weeks ago we were in a nearby town when I got a phone call from Yoli. Calls that start with "I'm standing in front of your house" don't bode well. She told me a milk delivery truck had managed to crash into the front of our house, damaging the balcony and railing and 6 sections of cantera (the hand carved stone door trim). Oops. Fortunately there was no real structural damage to the house.

We rushed back with images of major costs for repairs and other not so great scenarios. We learned that our sweet neighbor, whose husband had actually done the original work on the cantera, had been on her roof hanging laundry and witnessed the crash. She knew Yoli was my friend and rushed down the block to get her. Fortunately Yoli was home.

Thanks to Yoli's diplomacy, the honesty of the truck driver and the kindness of a neighbor, within days we were talking to an insurance agent for the milk company and two days ago a team showed up to do a professional repair job. They even repainted the entire balcony railing while they were at it.

This makes me realize two things: that I live in a real neighborhood where people care for each other. We walk here every day and are about the only gringos on the street. Others who live here, if we do see them. are in their cars. Maria Louisa, who saw the accident, has come to our house numerous times to review her English homework and we greet her, and everyone else in the bario, with every opportunity. We feel so fortunate to have chosen such a special neighborhood.

Secondly, horror stories circulate with too much enthusiasm among the foreign community about run-ins with this or that accident or lawyer or neighbor and I realize that we can't rush to assume anything. We are fortunate to have the opportunity to live in this country.