Slept in and after a hotel breakfast set off to Manahka, 100 km west of San'a on the Hodida road. Since we knew where the Hodida taxi stand was we inquired there and were told by one man in English that they would take us ½ way to Hodida (Manahka) for the full price of 30 reals. That seemed unfair but it was the only answer we could understand so we decided to hitchhike. We tromped out the Hodida road about ½ hour walk and stood another 20 minutes looking expectantly at the constant stream of cars going past. We decided we must be doing something wrong and inquired at the Citibank. We were directed to a Manahka taxi stand across the street from the Hodida stand but no one bothered to tell us at the time we were first there. So far on this trip this is the only time I've really felt annoyed at traveling and its inconveniences.
The taxi ride was through spectacular mountain passes and for me was a white knuckle ride. We were in the back seat of a Peugeot station wagon taxi and the cliffs were too shear for my taste. Somehow we arrived safely – two hours later – at Manahka.
The taxi ride was through spectacular mountain passes and for me was a white knuckle ride. We were in the back seat of a Peugeot station wagon taxi and the cliffs were too shear for my taste. Somehow we arrived safely – two hours later – at Manahka.
It is an eagle's nest of a town and the streets run up the hill among the stone houses. We took some pictures, looked for a place to have tea and didn't find it and set out to return to Sana'a. We found a share taxi to take us down the narrow road to the intersection. The driver's door didn't close and his brake light stayed on and he kept pumping the brakes – not my idea of how to return to San'a so we bid him good luck and decided to wait for better transport. As we were sitting, after about 5 minutes, a Yemeni in a skirt with a dagger in his belt came up and said “Sana'a?” and pointed to a large new Mercedes petrol truck. Well, why not, at least he won't speed.
He turned out to be a friendly, cheerful person who spoke only a few words of English. He wanted company and assured us enroute that the taxis were all terrible drivers and charge money but he didn't want any. He bought us Canada Cola which he would yell out the window asking at the tiny shops by the road if they had “Canada.” He was chewing chat and needed something to drink.
The return trip to San'a took 3 ½ hours and was far more pleasant with time to examine the views as the tanker chugged up the mountains and the driver pointed out sites of recent taxi accidents. We could also see ruined tanks from the battles in the countryside only a few years earlier.
We arrived in Sana'a just after dark, said goodbye to our new friend, and made our way home.
He turned out to be a friendly, cheerful person who spoke only a few words of English. He wanted company and assured us enroute that the taxis were all terrible drivers and charge money but he didn't want any. He bought us Canada Cola which he would yell out the window asking at the tiny shops by the road if they had “Canada.” He was chewing chat and needed something to drink.
The return trip to San'a took 3 ½ hours and was far more pleasant with time to examine the views as the tanker chugged up the mountains and the driver pointed out sites of recent taxi accidents. We could also see ruined tanks from the battles in the countryside only a few years earlier.
We arrived in Sana'a just after dark, said goodbye to our new friend, and made our way home.
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